‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.

Robert Foley Jr.
Robert Foley Jr.

A passionate gamer and writer who explores the intersection of technology and interactive entertainment.